My car had developed the shimmy and started popping when I hit the brakes or drove with the steering wheel at full lock. So I replaced the uppers first, which were shot on the joint and bushing end both. After that, the shimmy got a bit more intense, but the popping disappeared. I also got a creak that developed. So I replaced the lower arms. One was shot, the other was okay. I did that this weekend.
Now the shimmy is still there. Before it would come on around 55 never really drop off. Now it only hits at 65. This morning into work, it started popping again.
When you replace the arms, you load the vehicle before torquing the bolts on the bushing end, yes? Should you also do this for the ball joint?
Or is there more that I need to replace.
TIA,
Alex
Now the shimmy is still there. Before it would come on around 55 never really drop off. Now it only hits at 65. This morning into work, it started popping again.
When you replace the arms, you load the vehicle before torquing the bolts on the bushing end, yes? Should you also do this for the ball joint?
Or is there more that I need to replace.
TIA,
Alex
98 740iL still shimmy and pop after control arm replacement
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