I started taking pictures after the head was off, so I will not cover the head removal process; there's hundreds of threads on that already.
Some important things to know.
1. When you buy inserts, always buy the size that the hole is. 02 325i's have 7mm studs, so buy 7mm inserts.
2. When you get to the final stage where you install the insert with the driver, all of the threads in the inserts are not finished, the driver finishes them, at the same time, pressing the insert into the head, by expanding the insert. The driver is tapered at the tip, and for the driver to finish the threads, the tapered part must pass through the insert by 6mm. Knowing that, now you can figure out what size insert you need. Every attempt at measuring the holes depth was not accurate, but I kept getting 18mm, 19mm, and 20mm. (I do not have a (mm) ruler, was trying to use an on-screen ruler, and it just wasn't right)
3. Time-sert only sells 7mm inserts in carbon steel, not stainless steel. There are only 4 sizes available, 10mm, 14mm, 18mm and 20mm. Even with inaccurate depth measurements, I still went with the 14mm inserts; they worked beautifully because,
4. The insert kit comes with instructions, and even tells you how drill and tap out a blind hole. With that knowledge, you can make any size insert work, if you have the room to drill the hole deeper. When you have the head off and look in the exhaust ports, you can see there is plenty of room to work with, and I only need 1 to 2mm. So I marked the drill bit and tap, and drilled the hole to 20mm.
5. When I was tapping the holes, I went half way on all of them, blew out all the aluminum shavings with an air compressor, and then went back and finished the holes. I forgot to finish one hole, and once the insert is mostly in, it's almost impossible to get it out. It is a permanent fix, so do one hole at a time. Tap 1 hole half way, blow it out, then finish it, so there's no mistakes. I ended up taking the stud and screwing it in the insert 1-2mm, and then just broke the tip or front of the insert off. It ended up breaking off 4 threads total, but there's still 10 threads left, that should be good enough, I hope.
6. Time-sert does not mention lock-tite, but they do have a FAQ section, where they do say you can use it.
7. If you attempt this, and decide to attack it from the side (drilling vertically) you will have 2 intake valves and 2 exhaust valves open. So don't set you head down flat, use something to prop it up on either end.
As in to the actual job of installing the inserts, it really was simple and easy. This write-up is mainly only for the 7 tips and to show pictures. I couldn't get any closer to the head when taking pics, the iPhone wouldn't focus any closer because of the glare.
First step is to drill out the old threads.
When you tap a hole, shavings will build up in front of the tap, not allowing you to tap the whole 20mm. So again, Tap one whole hole half way, blow out shavings, and then finish that same hole, so none are forgotten.
Second step is to counter-bore.
IMG_0082.jpg
The left one is drilled out, and the middle one is drilled and counter-bored. When drilling, I kept pulling the drill bit out to keep checking if I was centered.
IMG_0083.jpg
As you drill, you should constantly be able to see the ring inside the hole.
Third step is to tap the hole.
In the first picture, the hole to the upper right of the picture is tapped.
Fourth step: install insert.
I forgot to take pictures of the insert on the driver, but you screw the insert on the driver (a big screw) until the unfinished threads in the insert won't let you screw it any further. Then you drive the insert in with the driver. The lip on the inserts will stop inside the counter-bore, and then that's when you finish the threads with the driver.
IMG_0084.jpgIMG_0121.jpgIMG_0126.jpg
At this point, it's done, then I decided to, "go to town" with a wire wheel.
I actually did this job, and wrote this write-up about a month and a half ago, I just forgot to post it. Since then, I have had this exhaust leak from somewhere and I couldn't find it. I could hear it at 1500rpms, and I was loosing all kinds of power. The problem was, I put my exhaust on my head, before I put my head back on the block; which is a great idea, but....
When you install the exhaust manifolds on the head before installing the head, if you slide the manifold on the studs and let go, the weight of the rear on the exhaust manifold (the pipes) will weight down the rear of the manifold and raise the front of the manifold. Then when you go to tighten your nuts, your manifolds will not be "straight" and when you go to tighten the flange bolts, you will either have a gap at the flanges, and if you manage to get ride of that gap, that means you are probably putting massive torque on the new inserts and cooper nuts that you must buy.
Because I stopped writing this over a month ago, I don't remember if there was anything else I wanted to write. If there are any questions, please ask. I will post more pictures tomorrow.
Some important things to know.
1. When you buy inserts, always buy the size that the hole is. 02 325i's have 7mm studs, so buy 7mm inserts.
2. When you get to the final stage where you install the insert with the driver, all of the threads in the inserts are not finished, the driver finishes them, at the same time, pressing the insert into the head, by expanding the insert. The driver is tapered at the tip, and for the driver to finish the threads, the tapered part must pass through the insert by 6mm. Knowing that, now you can figure out what size insert you need. Every attempt at measuring the holes depth was not accurate, but I kept getting 18mm, 19mm, and 20mm. (I do not have a (mm) ruler, was trying to use an on-screen ruler, and it just wasn't right)
3. Time-sert only sells 7mm inserts in carbon steel, not stainless steel. There are only 4 sizes available, 10mm, 14mm, 18mm and 20mm. Even with inaccurate depth measurements, I still went with the 14mm inserts; they worked beautifully because,
4. The insert kit comes with instructions, and even tells you how drill and tap out a blind hole. With that knowledge, you can make any size insert work, if you have the room to drill the hole deeper. When you have the head off and look in the exhaust ports, you can see there is plenty of room to work with, and I only need 1 to 2mm. So I marked the drill bit and tap, and drilled the hole to 20mm.
5. When I was tapping the holes, I went half way on all of them, blew out all the aluminum shavings with an air compressor, and then went back and finished the holes. I forgot to finish one hole, and once the insert is mostly in, it's almost impossible to get it out. It is a permanent fix, so do one hole at a time. Tap 1 hole half way, blow it out, then finish it, so there's no mistakes. I ended up taking the stud and screwing it in the insert 1-2mm, and then just broke the tip or front of the insert off. It ended up breaking off 4 threads total, but there's still 10 threads left, that should be good enough, I hope.
6. Time-sert does not mention lock-tite, but they do have a FAQ section, where they do say you can use it.
7. If you attempt this, and decide to attack it from the side (drilling vertically) you will have 2 intake valves and 2 exhaust valves open. So don't set you head down flat, use something to prop it up on either end.
As in to the actual job of installing the inserts, it really was simple and easy. This write-up is mainly only for the 7 tips and to show pictures. I couldn't get any closer to the head when taking pics, the iPhone wouldn't focus any closer because of the glare.
First step is to drill out the old threads.
When you tap a hole, shavings will build up in front of the tap, not allowing you to tap the whole 20mm. So again, Tap one whole hole half way, blow out shavings, and then finish that same hole, so none are forgotten.
Second step is to counter-bore.
IMG_0082.jpg
The left one is drilled out, and the middle one is drilled and counter-bored. When drilling, I kept pulling the drill bit out to keep checking if I was centered.
IMG_0083.jpg
As you drill, you should constantly be able to see the ring inside the hole.
Third step is to tap the hole.
In the first picture, the hole to the upper right of the picture is tapped.
Fourth step: install insert.
I forgot to take pictures of the insert on the driver, but you screw the insert on the driver (a big screw) until the unfinished threads in the insert won't let you screw it any further. Then you drive the insert in with the driver. The lip on the inserts will stop inside the counter-bore, and then that's when you finish the threads with the driver.
IMG_0084.jpgIMG_0121.jpgIMG_0126.jpg
At this point, it's done, then I decided to, "go to town" with a wire wheel.
I actually did this job, and wrote this write-up about a month and a half ago, I just forgot to post it. Since then, I have had this exhaust leak from somewhere and I couldn't find it. I could hear it at 1500rpms, and I was loosing all kinds of power. The problem was, I put my exhaust on my head, before I put my head back on the block; which is a great idea, but....
When you install the exhaust manifolds on the head before installing the head, if you slide the manifold on the studs and let go, the weight of the rear on the exhaust manifold (the pipes) will weight down the rear of the manifold and raise the front of the manifold. Then when you go to tighten your nuts, your manifolds will not be "straight" and when you go to tighten the flange bolts, you will either have a gap at the flanges, and if you manage to get ride of that gap, that means you are probably putting massive torque on the new inserts and cooper nuts that you must buy.
Because I stopped writing this over a month ago, I don't remember if there was anything else I wanted to write. If there are any questions, please ask. I will post more pictures tomorrow.
DIY: Fixing The Exhaust Stud Hole's In The Head.
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